Has a link and its pin just come loose from your steel watch bracelet? Don't panic! Thanks to this guide, you'll learn how to measure a bracelet correctly and choose the right pin. The guide is easy to follow and requires no special knowledge of watchmaking. A calliper or a graduated ruler are useful for this guide.
If you don't have a ruler or caliper handy, but you do have a printer, download the printable ruler included in the guide.
What is a watch pin?
A watch pin is a watch component that links several links together. These pins make up the solid steel bracelet. If the pin is lost, the links can no longer be held together, and the watch bracelet can no longer be worn. We advise you to change them occasionally, as pins can rust or oxidize over time, especially if they come into regular contact with water.
See our article on the water-resistance of a watch.
The different types of watch pins
Before ordering new pins for your watch bracelet, it's essential to know what type of pins make up your metal bracelet.
Here's an overview of the different types of watch pins and their uses.
Split
The split pin is one of the most common cylindrical bars found in steel watchbands. It is generally made of stainless steel. Its central slot allows it to be compressed into the link hole during insertion.
Its diameter and length vary according to the watch model.
Straight
The straight pin is a solid rod without a tip, of the same size along its entire length. It is inserted into the bracelet links and is commonly used on Swatch watch bracelets.
It is available in several lengths and diameters to suit different watch models.
Simple knurled
The simple knurled pin has grooves (knurling) on one end. These grooves help the pin to stay in place in the link, preventing it from coming loose easily.
This type of pin is robust and comes in a range of diameters and lengths.
Double knurled
This pin has double knurling, with ridges on both ends. It provides a solid connection between the links of a steel watch bracelet, and is found on luxury watches such as Rolex.
Available in several lengths and diameters, it's an ideal choice for a secure bracelet.
How do you measure a watch pin?
To know which new pin to buy, it's essential to know its length and diameter. The length ensures that the links are held correctly, while the diameter guarantees that the pin fits perfectly into the link without any play.
Here's how to do it:
Length of cotter pin
Selected measurement: 19 mm
Length of straight pin
Selected measurement:
24 mm
Length Knurled Pin
Measurement withheld: 18 mm
Length Double Knurled Pin
Measurement withheld: 27 mm
Diameter Slotted Pin
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Measurement withheld:
0.90 mm
Diameter of Straight Pin
Measurement withheld: 0.90 mm
Diameter of Knurled Pin
Measurement withheld:
0.90 mm
Diameter Double Mitered Pin
Measure retained: 1.10 mm
How do I measure the width of the bracelet to determine the length of the pin?
If you don't have access to an original pin, or if you prefer to measure the bracelet directly, you can determine the length of the pin by taking the width of the bracelet where the pin will be inserted. Use a caliper or ruler to measure the distance between the two ends of the bracelet link.
This measurement in millimeters will correspond to the length of the pin to be ordered.
Note that this method is particularly useful when the bracelet is already mounted on the watch and you cannot remove the existing pin.
By measuring the width, you ensure that the pin will be the right length to hold the links securely together.
Conclusion
In conclusion, correctly measuring a watch pin is essential to guarantee the strength and durability of your metal or leather bracelet. Use suitable tools and check the condition of the pins regularly to ensure optimum hold.
For more information, please visit our online store and explore our range of watch pins and accessories.